Kitesurfing Mana Island, Fiji

We stayed 3 nights on  Mana island. Upon my research it, had an appeal because its aspect was such that the south east trade winds will be received without interruption. There is a lagoon in front of a long beach formed by a reef around the island and it is only 45 minutes by boat from Nadi allowing for a timely return to the airport 
Unfortunately for us, trade winds being like they are, we got the lull between the cycles. The island promises a lot in promotion, but really it was nothing, compared to the two islands we just left.


We were supposed to leave Leleuvia by boat at 9:00am returning to Waidalice bridge. We had arranged this with the driver from Caqalai island as this island only provides a service to Bau landing. The reason we wanted to go back to Waidalice  was because it sits on the main road around the island. Buses and other services frequent this road going both directions: either of which would serve our purpose to get to Nadi.
Last night both Dennis and I slipped up. Perhaps an excess of rum tasting, music and frivolity, excitement for a new venture who knows ? We indulged in the ritual of kava indulgence. Funny how the mind mellows and taste buds change after a bit of alcohol infusion !  The problem with kava is that there is a cup shared amongst many persons, the pulp is squeezed by hand into cold water - anyway, I had the runs, so I downed a couple of Gastro-Stop pills and prayed.

The boat did not arrive until after 11am - this is Fiji. So I had a bit of time to stabilise the guts. Unfortunately we missed and express bus that runs to Nadi via Lautoka,  (we wanted to continue anti-clockwise route) so we settled for a journey south retracing through Suva and Sigatoka.

Suffer boys. Alcohol, why does it taste better and life take on a different perspective, the more you drink ? Kava, looks and tastes like muddy river water. All yours Dennis !
Some of the buses were a bit chockers, not with your average suitcase either. Fiji is a very rural country. So we had to bide our time; not for long though, to get one with space adequate for our bags.
The bus trip was straight forward, we had a quick change in Suva and were in Nadi at around 5pm. From Nadi we caught a taxi to our 'resort' accommodation in Fantasy Island.

 Fantasy Island resort and marina  what a fabulous non-existent place that is ! We got to Fantasy island and found a welcoming security arch and construction site. The poor taxi driver went here and there and back again. We showed him a picture on Dennis's mobile phone - out of range of course. Where can it be ? 

It turns out that when we booked the accommodation using booking.com on searching for possibilities there are several countries on offer. We did choose Fiji, however there is a 'discount' offer if you log in. We logged in and without realising ended up with a booking for "Fantasy Island Beach resort and marina - all inclusive" in .... Roatan, Honduras.  The taxi driver for some reason was unwilling to take us to Honduras. Mobile phone apps, love em and hate em: easy to miss such a small piece of detail.
Fortunately, there was a 'resort' in Fantasy Island, Fiji on this construction site (or so we were told by some locals). It was owned by a Greek Australian managed by a Fijian family of Tongan origins. They happened to be walking around and friendly enough to answer our queries about this mystical place and said "we run accommodation here and have two apartments available". Sold !  We parted with $80FJ each and 15 for the bemused taxi driver and had a comfortable apartment each. They were super friendly and took us into town twice, once in the evening and once in the morning as well as to the boat rendezvous point for Mana island.
Our boat departure time was supposed to be 9:30am so we went into town for breakfast and some souvenir shopping - gotta keep the loved ones happy. 9:30 turns into 11:00 before we leave anyway due to the loading of island provisions and waiting for other passengers.

Dennis's turn for a bit of disaster. He was supposed to be a real sea-farer and here we are on the high seas on mirror smooth water and he was as crook as a dog !   His guts were aching after breakfast, on the boat he paled and lapsed into unconsciousness 30 minutes out. I asked for the boat to return to shore - which was complied with  - and upon landing the staff took him promptly to the medical centre. All credit to Ratu Kini dive centre and back packers, they did an exemplary job in this area of care.
Dennis spent the day on a drip at the medical centre and night on the toilet in a comfy hotel in Nadi (pity the cleaning staff !).  Not much for me to do, so with a not to hard a nudge, I continued the journey to the island suffering its services alone.
Mana island is a bit of a let down in comparison to our stay on Caqalai and Leleuvia islands. Had it of been windy we would have been happy. The lagoon formed by the reef is huge and would of offered plenty of area to play on.  It is a let down because it's more populated and suffers the problems of population - litter and boat traffic and associated furniture such as jetties and moorings.
Ratu Kini Backpackers and Dive Resort is a bit run down. We made an error taking the "deal" where food is included. The ala-carte option offered better choice and meal quality. I personally would prefer to provide my own breakfast and lunch and only eat main meals.

They do however offer a range of activities such as free snorkelling trips and broad menu of dive options from  night to ship wreck to shark and reef dives as well as beginner to professional dive courses. One of the guys we met was doing the 8 day ultimate package of 20 days, I was tired thinking about it.

The diving and snorkelling here was good, not as good as the great barrier reef or West Papua but enjoyable nether-the-less. The water was reasonably clear and warm. Dennis booked in for a couple of dives and enjoyed them.
With time to spare I tried out a massage here. It was pleasant enough in an open room. Unfortunately the dive compressors kind of spoiled the experience, but somehow you manage to zone out regardless. Not to be left out, Dennis too had to have a massage, after all that kerfuffle on the first day he had to make up for it !
I paddled round the island and to a sand island a km or so off the northern shore. The journey took about 3 hours. On the western side of the island as I was returning an officious looking Fijian started admonishing me telling me I was not permitted to paddle round the island ! Too late for that I said, and what it is the difference for me compared to all the other vessels in the water ?  "Well this Fiji, we have different rules than your country !"

It turns out that a television series called Survivor was being filmed here. They took over a huge slice of the island and hire mugs like this keep the whole thing secret. Me in my little plastic floaty presents a real threat to the shows integrity ! 

Had I have known about this, I would never of booked Mana Island. We were not permitted to walk outside the beach area of the resort and not allowed to land anywhere else on the island and snorkel on some reef you take a fancy too if it is deemed close to the film set. Apparently they'll have these kind of rights until the end of 2017.

Anyway, the paddle and snorkelling was pleasant. I got away with it and enjoyed every moment including the little verbal tiff !

Mana Island summary: nice if the wind was blowing for kiting, nice if you like diving, nice if you can afford to stay in an upmarket resort, otherwise give it a big miss.  I just can't be enamoured with it when the other two places we visited closed in on the idyll set in my mind about tropical paradise.
We had a good time (despite the little mishaps !). I was happy with the choice of locations, perhaps not quite so with Mana island, but the story would have been different if mother nature came up with the goods in the wind department. It would have been a better idea also to properly determine accommodation options at the start and return to Nadi, but hey that's travel.

Wind is a fickle thing. We were hoping for those famed south easterly trade winds, and indeed got them on the first 4 days. Apparently it is like that here, you will get blasted for 8 days or so then there is  a lull to catch breath and away it goes again.

I love the people of Fiji, they are a friendly and honest people. The guys on the island were quite keen to have a go at kite surfing, but not being qualified I wasn't willing to take the risk teaching. The help availed to us with our Fantasy fiasco and Dennis' illness woes was great.

I am happy with the equipment we took and with the medical kit. I realise also that it is important to be self sufficient / proficient in kite equipment repair.

Here is some of the stuff I took.
  • Kites - 17m Griffin Trx-Pro 2014, 10m North Rebel 2012. Boards - 155cm Cabrinha, 140cm Split Element. (Very happy with choices). Impact vest. Light weight Sharkskin wetsuit to protect from coral scrapes, Ion plasma booties and a pink bash hat that no one is going to steal !
  • Kite & board Repair
    Bladder repair kit, sail repair tape, spare screws for fins / bindings, screw driver. Spare kite lines.  For future reference: knowledge & experience (and/or mpg movie files on how-to)
  • Launching rig.
    All important with only two persons, indeed at any time on coral / shell laced beaches. A simple rope with quick release clip is all that is needed. Tie rope around a log or tree or find a stick and bury in the sand. The kite should land and launch from the water.
  • First Aid kit:
    Bandaids, water resistant.  Bandages, scissors (make you don't have in cabin luggage !!). Dettol, super glue for wound suturing, Gastro-stop, splinter remover, and tea-trea oil / Peroxide for coral cuts.
  • Camera - Olympus Tough TG-1. Unfortunately the flash kicked it so I need a new one, after 6 years of use in some of the wildest environments in the world I am very happy to buy a new one.
  • Kite Bag. The 160cm  Mystic bag is light at around 3.5kg however it is poorly engineered in the wheel structure, and needs better carry strap attachements. Considering this is more expensive than current offerings I am disappointed. I will be carefully looking at other options - hopefully I do not have to roll out my own !
  • Snorkelling gear. Even though all places offered this, it is much better to have your own.
  • Kindle Paper-white reader. Love this device, never had to charge it up over the break and read three books.
  • Sense of humour and go get attitude - think we both had that in droves !

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